Saturday, September 22, 2007

Byron Bay to Sydney

During these days I was waiting for another lifter cause Helen wanted to enjoy Byron a bit longer and I had to move on (planed to have around a week to find accommodation in Sydney before starting work on the 2nd October). Finally a "frenchie" named Kevin called me...unfortunately he's been the only one :-/ But at least somebody to chat and share petrol costs ;-)


When we were supposed to leave Byron he had to wait for 1 1/2 hours to get his appraisal/pay slip and I got bored listening to FeeBee's nice audio. He showed up and off we-e-e-e-e...arks! FeeBee refused to start...even after getting pushed by 3 guys.
We parked her again and needed somebody to jump start us (jump starter battery was discharged as well of course). Not so easy in a town. People don't get your point and really do think that your waving at'em. So I took out my little roadbook and and wrote in big letters: "Got starter cables?" with a permanent marker...5 seconds later and one of FeeBee's "brothers" stopped with a nice alternative Hippie kind of guy sitting behind the wheel.

Connect the two batteries aaaaaaand byebye Byron!

Unfortunately I didn't make any notes during the remaining 700?km to Sydney.


Surfer at Woolgoolga


Nambucca Heads


Evens Heads, Yamba (wonder if this town got anything to do with the ring tones *g*) and Seal Rocks (click here for map). We would have just passed by but fortunately we picked up another local hitchhiker and gave him a lift for a few kilometers to Bulahdelah. He told us about the place and highly recommended it.

So we turned around, went off the Buladelah Coolongelolok Freeway/ Pacific highway and drove on a narrow (dirt) road towards it. When you get closer you are welcomed via huge words painted on the street (the picture I took didn't show it that good but I remember something with peace...).

Seal Rocks is a small, sleepy and rather isolated beach town south of Forster-Tuncurry and 310 km from Sydney. Its fame rests largely on its beautiful lighthouse and the sense of isolation it enjoys. The very ordinary dirt road which separates the town from the main road (Lakes Way) has kept development at bay and there is a strong feeling that the locals are very happy with this barrier to excessive development (FeeBee liked it too).
There are some very real attractions: unspoilt surfing beaches, a noted diving spot, the nearby Myall Lakes National Park and, most notably, the spectacularly beautiful Seal Rocks lighthouse - officially known as Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse - which overlooks an unspoilt beach and the group of offshore rocky outcrops which give the area its name.

either those guys were just relaxing or - due to the season - looking for whales, or both...

at least some dolphins showed up close to the beach



after a short thinking period we decided to walk "a few" steps towards the Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse

first "negative" impression ;-)

rocks are softer than water

View lighthouse

The construction of Sugarloaf Lighthouse was completed in 1875, ten years after it was recommended a light be placed to highlight the treacherous Seal Rocks. It was originally intended to place the light on Seal Rocks but landing was difficult the proposition was abandoned.
Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse


I really like these two pictures (Heaven and Hell?!?)

more like heaven with rocks


simply a nice spot to stay around (if you like it relaxt)

Shortly after returning to the highway we drove off again. Stoney Creek Rd weaves its way through the Bulahdelah Forest joining up with The Lakes Way. There is a signpost inviting you to drive the 6 km to the 'Grandis' a huge, 400-year-old flooded gum (Eucalyptus grandis) which, at a height of 76 metres, is said to be the tallest tree in New South Wales. We thought the road to it was even more exiting and demanded a lot from FeeBee...but she made it...again.



Nambucca Heads, Crescent Head.
Crescent Head is quite far off the highway and we thought it might be nice to eat some dirt on the way to Port Macquarie although one of our two maps didn't show this "road"...anyway. The first part went well. But the road got bumpier and bumpier which made me feel like being back on Fraser again. Despite the dips and bumps and muddy water FeeBee did well and we hoped it'd soon be better...

...we got disappointed as the track turned sandy. I remembered that Lena and I got stuck in the NT outback sand ones after going off road to collect some firewood as well as Fraser conditions (and what you need for it). While thinking about it and walking 100m in the sand to sort out its consistency the first car since we started to go "off road" (~35 Minutes) came towards us. I asked them about the further track conditions and they replied that it probably doesn't make any sense to keep on going. Well, we almost made it to Port Macquarie...almost. So all the way back (we even forgot to take a picture of this adventure). That was definitely the hardest track FeeBee ever went on...and she (and the extraordinary driver of course) brought us back safely...pooh, what a relief to get to Port Macquarie! Next stop: Forster (link)

huge Australia flag on the way to Forster


FeeBee after the toughest 4wd track ever. We both enjoyed the quite sleeping spot in Forster


Kevin checking out the surfing conditions


Forster is a twin city with Tuncurry and supposed to have good surf conditions. We parked in a small "No Through" (Sackgasse) road, walked on the nearby dune and decided to stay here. Kevin wanted to put up his tent behind the dunes and so we did...

...go to sleep early in order to catch the sunrise and the morning waves. These sunsets are just always amazing, although you don't see it going down in the ocean - east coast it is...

sunset over my footprints in the dune sand





Therefore sun is rising from the ocean...if you're up early...

We were up early anyway so Kevin gave surfing a go whereas I was looking for a "public bathrrom".

"our" dune for the night (up the left side)


Kevin's board was way too short for me but at least I tried (it's more of a body board for me but who cared?). I felt better when he mentioned that it's a mystery for him as well how the locals could surf these waves. He didn't catch a good one...fun factor high, water temperature loooow...brrrrr...


brrrrr...that woke me up...



Tea Gardens / Hawks Nest, passing Newcastle. From there Sydney is already within spitting distance. We choose the route of the highway and on the coast line (Belmont South to Gosford - look it up via google maps).




Sydney

Harbour Bridge for the first time...and to Sydney's most famous beach: Bondi...nice! Kevin stayed in the YHA and I sneaked into the hostel for two days for having a shower, brush teeth and wash my dirty clothes. I kept on sleeping inside of FeeBee until I needed people again


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